The Perfect Day in Paris (July 24)

I think we had it today...

Got to Notre Dame at 9:30 a.m. We had toured the church already, but wanted to climb the bellfry, so we got there before it opened. Still waited in line 90 minutes, but the views and the gargoyles were worth it!

While standing in line we ate breakfast (crepes with... strawberry, apricot, and chocolate [yes, for breakfast!]), and when we finished, it was time to eat again. "Remember yesterday." So we headed to the Cite Metro station for tickets and a subway ride. After having been really overwhelmed by the friendliness of the French on our last trip (everyone asked: Do the French hate the Americans?), we have, unfortunately, found the stereotype, in the flesh, on more than one occasion this trip! The woman at the information booth would hardly even look at us to help us with the automatic "Vente" machine to buy our billettes. It helped a little bit to see her be just as inconsiderate and rude to a French family who walked up as we were walking away in disgust. Anyway... with the help of other folks in line (none French), however, we managed to get the tickets we needed, and about a half our later were at Montmartre, the artsy community on the hill, north of the main tourist part of town. (This is the home of the famous Moulin Rouge -- they boys and I wanted tickets for the show, but couldn't convince mama!)

Sacre Couer (sacred heart) is a beautiful stone cathedral overlooking Paris, that we had seen only from the outside three years ago. As we entered, an attendant "shhhshed" the crowd just ahead of us, made the women cover their bare shoulders, and required the tennage boy to remove his ball cap. The quiet sanctity we found in the heart of this very Catholic church was renewing. We explained to the boys, as well as two protestant pastors could, why the woman had brought a dozen red roses to the statue of Mary along the ambulatory, and what all the lit candles were for -- just before we spent a few moments of prayer thinking of/thanking God you (and not in the name of the Blessed Virgin!)

After these holy moments, we found our way to the square that makes Montmartre a favorite for tourists, and though it's a bit overdone, it's still a wonderful visit. Artists are packed in to the square, offering their wares, oil and watercolors of Parisian scenes, and portrait artists, busily at work, in pencil and chalk and brushes of various media. Amy had wanted the boys portraits, but, they were a bit pricey on the square (not expensive, but "pricey," for the poor/cheap at heart!) So, after an excursion to find a public "twallette," we ran across Njegos (go figure the pronounciation -- I can't say it even after he introduced himself!), selling his artisic services in front of a little cafe, a block from the square. "Guaranteed. You don't like. Don't buy." So Jackson sat first. Fascinating it is to see a portrait artist at work, and to behold your son's face -- and more -- emerge. With one faint line, a pensive mood is revealed... when Bennett sat, a nuanced curve of the lip captured mischief in the making. In the midst of the sitting, a Parisian downpour. "Don't worry," Njegos assured, "This is Paris. We wait. It will clear." So we waited... under the cafe awning. "I am not in good relationship with the owner, " he said. So, when the rain slackened he suggested we purchase a drink so he would finish his work there. So, the boys enjoyed a $6.00 glass of coke (with no "free refills" -- anywhere in Europe!), and the pencil rendering, just as Njegos promised, looks "just like them."

Taking the train back to the heart of the city, we arrived at Charles de Gaulle Etoille, and emerged from the subway to an incredible view of the Arc de Triomphe. We viewed the spectacular arch, but passed up the tour to the top, in favor of dinner on the Champs Elyesees. Though the boys seemed a bit beyond one more interesting fact, when we sat down under the streetside tent of George V restaurant, we reminded them that they were now dining on one of the most famous streets in the world. (Yea. We want spaghetti!)

Following the meal, we walked the famous avenue all the way to the Tuilleries gardens, outside the Louvre, and finished our day with a visit to the city carnival that was set up parallel to the street. (The city is in the midst of planning for its largest annual incursion of visitors -- as the Tour de France bike race concludes here tomorrow!) So after an icecream, the boys and I rode the swings, and the four of us finished the night riding the huge farris wheel we had been seeing from views all around town. It was an appropriate end to a wonderful day.

You don't have to come to Paris for this -- we've had these moments on occasion at home -- but enjoying one another as we did yesterday and, for me, watching Amy and the boys laugh and play together in a day of exploration and discovery... well, this is what life is about.

And I'm grateful to all who have made this possible.